DIY,  Woodworking

DIY Simple Faux Fireplace

I have always wanted a fireplace and now I can say I have one! Well, a faux one. But that works for me. And I got it done just in time to start decorating for Christmas. πŸ™ŒπŸΌ I also have a place to hang out stockings now! Side note, these are my FAVORITE stockings made by my sweet friend Rendi from @thevintagebucket CLICK HERE for more details on them!

I provided a list of the wood I purchased before the cuts and then a breakdown of the wood cuts you’ll need. Sometimes wood cuts can be overwhelming when you have a ton of them for a tutorial, so I am hoping this will lessen the confusion.

Ok, let’s talk materials!Β 

Wood: (before cuts)

2 – 1 x 7 x 8’
1 – 1 x 10 x 8’
1 – 2 x 10 x 10’
1 – 1 x 4 x 8’
1 – 1 x 12 x 4’
1 – 2 x 4 x 8’

Tip: I can only fit boards that are 8’ long or shorter in my SUV, so I had an associate at Lowe’s cut the 2x10x10 to 2 – 53”. You will probably need to do this unless you have a truck. πŸ€— Bonus, this takes care of your mantle and base cuts.Β 

Wood Cuts:

2 – 1 x 7 x 44” – outside fireplace pieces
2 – 1 x 10 x 44” – outside fireplace pieces
2 – 1 x 7 x 32 3/4” – inside fireplace pieces
2 – 2 x 10 x 53” – mantle and base
2 – 1 x 4 x 31” – front trim
2 – 1 x 4 x 6 2/16” – front trim end pieces
1 – 1 x 12 x 4’ – center piece below mantle
1 – 2 x 4 x 4’ – inside support piece for mantle

Tools & Materials:

Miter saw
Hammer
Electric screwdriver
Tape measure
Level
Kreg Jig
Clamp
1 1/4” pocket hole screws
1 1/2” wood screws
2” wood screws
1 1/2” finishing nails
Wood filler
Orbital sander
120 grit sandpaper
Paint brush
Paint

Note: For the paint I used SW Snowbound to match the trim.

Here are the dimensions of the fireplace.

Step 1: Cut all the wood.

Step 2: Using a Kreg, drill 5 pocket holes down one side of the 1 x 7 x 44” piece. Repeat on the other 1 x 7 x 44” piece.

Step 3: Align one of the 1 x 7 x 44” pieces on top of one of the 1 x 10 x 44” pieces (the 7′ wide board should butt up against the end of the 10″ wide board) and secure them together with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Repeat on the other side. These pieces are the ends of the fireplace. See below for reference.

The backside of the end pieces
The front side of the ends. The 10′ boards are the front and should be facing outward like this.

Step 4: Lay the end pieces parallel to each other (with the 10” boards facedown) on a flat surface then place the 1 x 12 x 4’ along the top edge of the ends. The ends of the 12” board should butt up against the top and ends of the 1 x 10 x 44” pieces. See picture below.

Step 5: Using 8 – 1 1/2” wood screws (4 on each side) secure the 12” board to the backs of the 10” boards. See above picture.

Note: The opening of the fireplace should measure 31” from end-to-end.

Step 6: Using a Kreg, drill 4 pocket holes down one side of the 1 x 7 x 32 3/4” piece. Repeat on the other 1 x 7 x 32 3/4” piece.

Step 7: Secure the 1 x 7 x 32 3/4” pieces on the other ends of the front facing 10” boards using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. These are the inside pieces of the fireplace. Once secure the center should look boxed in. I will refer to this as β€œthe box” moving forward.

Step 8: Lay the box facedown and align the 2 x 4 x 4’ along the back edge of the box, then secure it to inside of the box with 2-2” screws on each side. The screws will be on the outside of the box. I just painted over the screws, but you can use wood filler to hide them before painting if desired. See below.

Note:Β As you can see I did not complete the steps in the order I am showing you. Mainly because I was building from scratch and had to adjust the frame several times. The order I am sharing with you is the most efficient way to build the fireplace.

Step 9: Place the mantle (one of the 2 x 10 x 53” pieces) on a flat surface then place the box upside down on top of it, centered. You want to make sure the 2 x 4 x 4’ piece is aligned with the back edge of the mantle.Β  Then secure the box to the mantle by using 5 – 2” screws. The hangover of the mantle should be on the front side of the fireplace.

Step 10: (optional) secure the trim (2 – 1 x 4 x 31” pieces and 2 – 1 x 4 x 6 2/16” pieces) around the front center piece of the fireplace using 1 1/2” finishing nails. See picture below.

Step 11: Secure the base. With the box upside down, center the base to the box with the back edge of the base aligned with the back edge of the box (the overhang should be in the front just as it is with the mantle) then use 2” wood screws to secure the base to the box.

Step 12: Use wood filler to fill in the holes from the outside screws or just paint over them. If you use wood filler, allow the wood filler to dry completely. Then sand the fireplace to a smooth finish using 120 grit sandpaper.

Step 13: Paint the fireplace. I used SW Snowbound paint to match the trim. I applied two coats of paint, then let it dry overnight before decorating.

Step 14: Decorate your new faux fireplace!

I bought corbels to add to the front, but not sure if I’m going to add them. They are a bit smaller than I thought they would be. So until I can figure out how I am going to incorporate the corbels, the fireplace will be left like this, which I am completely ok with.

If you want to know how to make the garland CLICK HERE. Also, if you are wondering what the wall color is, it’s SW Evergreens. Doesn’t it look so pretty with the Christmas decor? I might keep this up year round. Just kidding, but I do love it!

And that’s a wrap! I hope you enjoyed my tutorial and find it inspiring to build your own. It’s definitely not the real thing, but I love it just as much. 😍 If you have any questions please comment below. If you use my plans to build your own, I would love to know about it! You can tag me on Instagram. My handle is @acarriedaffairdesigns

Until next time. Xo

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