DIY Shiplap Wall

So I have been swooning over shiplap since I was introduced to it on Instagram. I am a DIYer so I figured I would attempt it. It actually isn’t terribly difficult, but it had its moments. Probably because patience isn’t my strong suit. The great part of this tutorial is I will be pointing out my pain points in the hopes it will spare you some heart ache. However, I am so happy I did it! If you swoon over shiplap too, then read on.
First things first! Let’s go over some lessons learned in the hopes your project goes smoother than mine. 😁 

Lesson learned 1: Make sure you purchase decent grade wood. I mean it is going on your wall. I actually bought good wood & didn’t have any issues, but I watched & read several tutorials and this is the one thing people kept pointing out so I want to point it out to you. I purchased birch wood. It was $24.95 a sheet, but it has a very smooth finish & it was easy to work with. Using a cheap grade could result in warped boards. The wood was the biggest expense, but you will be happy you invested in a quality wood when you aren’t doing touch-ups a few weeks later.

Lesson learned 2: Paint your wall the same color you are painting the shiplap before you secure the shiplap to the wall. I did not do this, which resulted in me buying a tiny paint brush to get in all the cracks. It didn’t help that the wall was a dark gray to begin with. My husband even told me to paint it first, but in Carrie fashion I thought my way was right. Well it wasn’t. 😑

Lesson learned 3: Buy a nail gun. Or rent one. Or borrow one. Unless you don’t need to use your arms for the next few days, buy a nail gun. I hammered in roughly 30 nails a board. Somewhere in the range of 800 nails. My arms are starting to hurt even thinking about it. I couldn’t pick my 22 lb 1 year old up without moaning for the days following. If you want to do it the old fashion way, then you do you, but you have been warned. 😂

You still want to do this? Sure you do! It actually wasn’t hard. It was just a lot of stop & go. I would have gotten this done in a lot less time if I didn’t have kids, a husband, or a job. 😂 But I do and I wouldn’t change a thing about my life. Except buying a nail gun before I started this project. 😁


  • 4×8′ sheets of wood (I used 5 birch wood sheets total but this is all dependent on the width of the planks you want & the size of your wall)
  • Pencil
  • 1 lb. box of 1 1/4″ finishing nails 
  • Liquid nails (I used 5 total)
  • Paint (I used Gallery White from Behr)
  • Wood filler 
  • 120 grit sand paper block
  • 120 grit flat piece of sand paper
  • Outlet extender box (if you have outlets on your wall)


  • Table saw
  • Jig saw
  • Circular saw
  • Tape measure
  • Hammer or nail gun
  • Caulking gun
  • Paint brush or roller. 
  • Spatula for wood filler
  • Razor blade

The cuts will all be dependent on the size of your wall. My wall was about 14 feet wide & 9 feet tall. I decided to go with boards 6 1/8 inch wide based on how large my wall is.

Step 1: measure your wall to figure out the amount of wood you will need. Once you have all your measurements purchase the wood & gather all your materials & tools.

Step 2: Paint your wall the same color you plan to paint your shiplap. This is optional, but if you have a dark colored wall & plan to paint the shiplap white I would recommend painting the wall. I used Gallery White from Behr. 

Step 3: Using the tape measure & pencil mark where you want to make the cuts. My amazing FIL did most of the cuts as well as measured everything out. I assisted a little bit, but it was mainly him. We used a circular saw. If you have outlets you will need to use a jigsaw to cut the outline of the outlet(s). You can have Lowe’s cut the boards, but precision is key.

Step 4: If you have outlets you should install the outlet extender box before applying the shiplap. I did not do that, but again…lesson learned. We had two outlets. My FIL came to the rescue again and installed them for me while I was away on a business trip, but I found this very detailed tutorial on how to install them.

Step 5: Using your caulking gun apply liquid nails to the first board. I started at the top and worked my way down. I made sure to press the edge up against the corner and hold it for about a minute. Note: I wanted each row to look like 1 long board, but there are actually two. If you don’t want that look, you will need to alternate the long & short boards on each side.

Step 6: Using a hammer or nail gun. Hammer finishing nails in each of the 4 corners of the board. You should hammer a nail in about every 4 inches along the top and bottom of each board.

Step 7: Repeat steps 5 & 6 until all the boards are up.

Step 8: Apply wood filler to all the nail holes and any other places desired. I wanted each row to look like 1 long board so I applied wood filler where the two boards connected.

Step 9: Using the 120 grit sand block, sand down all the wood filler to a smooth finish.

Step 10: Using the flat piece of 120 grit sandpaper sand in between the planks for any hard to get to debris from the wood filler.

Step 11: Using a damp towel, wipe the boards to remove any dust or debris from sanding.

Step 12: Have a drink or 3 if you just did all that by hand & you don’t have to drive anywhere. 😂

Step 13: Paint your wall! I didn’t use a primer. I applied two coats total waiting 24 hours in between coats. Let the wall dry for 48 hours. I would recommend dabbing your brush on water to thin out your paint when painting in between the boards. If your paint is thick it can cause the paint to build up in the cracks.

Step 14: Using the 120 grit flat sandpaper smooth out any areas between the boards where paint has built up. Since I did this myself, I had several areas where this happened.

Step 15: Wipe the wall down with soap and water.

Step 16: Decorate away! Because I had just put so much time into this wall I didn’t dare use nails to hang anything. I used the M3 strips. You can purchase these almost anywhere. I got mine from Lowe’s.

Congratulations you have created a beautiful shiplap wall. The total cost for the wood, outlet extender boxes , finishing nails, & liquid nails was about $170. I had everything else on hand. It isn’t the most inexpensive DIY project, but it was a whole lot less than contracting it out.

I hope you found my tutorial helpful! If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Have a great day. Until next time. Xoxo

Rose Hips Wreath Tutorial

The season of big comfy sweaters, golden leaves, & hot chocolate is upon us and I couldn’t be more excited!! 🍂🍁 I have been OBSESSING over the Rose Hip Wreath from Pottery Barn for over three weeks now, but since it’s only seasonal decor I just couldn’t bring myself to paying $129 for it. Isn’t is dreamy?!? 😍😍

So in Carrie fashion, I decided I would make my own. So I was off to Hobby Lobby! With the picture of the Pottery Barn wreath pulled up on my phone I scoured the floral section for rose hip & greenery & I hit the jackpot! I found everything I needed for…wait for it…under $10!!! It took me less than 1 hour to put it together and I am just all kinds of heart eyes over it! 😍😍

If you love this wreath as much as I do then follow my step-by-step tutorial below.

Materials: (all from Hobby Lobby)

  • 1 rose hip bunch – $5.99
  • 1 green leaf bunch – $3.99
  • 1 wreath – $3.99

The rose hip & greenery were 40% off & I used the 40% off one item coupon for the wreath so I paid $8.40 total plus tax. I saved $120.60!!! So crazy!!!
Tools you will need: 

  • Glue gun
  • Glue sticks
  • Scissors
  • Pliers

1. Gather all the materials
2. Using scissors, cut all the branches off of the greenery bunch.

3. Using pliers, cut all the rose hip branches off.

4. Place the leaf stems in the wreath as desired. Do not use the glue gun at this point unless you are sure that’s where you want the leaves.

5. Place the rose hips in the wreath as desired.

6. Once you are happy with how you have the leaves & rose hips use the glue gun & put a small amount of glue on the end of each branch (one at a time) to secure the leaf branches to the wreath.

7. Repeat step 6 for the rose hips.

8. Find a place to put your new beautiful wreath!

I am so glad I took the time to tap into my DIY side rather then running out to buy the wreath at Pottery Barn. I do love Pottery Barn, but if you can replicate it for a fraction of the cost, why not? Can you even tell a difference?? I can’t!

Well, I hope you enjoyed my tutorial! If you decide to make this I would love for you to share it with me! You can find me on Instagram at @acarriedaffairdesigns Thanks for stopping by! Happy Fall! 🍂🍁🍂

DIY Paper Mache Astronaut Helmet

My son Carter is approaching the end of 4th grade <insert sad music> & his final project had me more excited then he was. The project requirements were to portray a famous Hoosier as a wax figure at a wax museum. He choose David Wolf, an Indianapolis native that became an astronaut. With that he had to have a costume and props. So of course my DIY imagination started running wild!

We had the outfit ironed out, but we still needed a helmet so we decided to make it out of paper mache. It was so simple and cost nothing, because I already had all the materials. So if you are looking for an inexpensive way to make a helmet here are step-by-step instructions.

  • Balloon (standard size)
  • 1 cup of flour
  • 2 cup of water
  • Newspaper
  • White copy paper
  • Scissors
  • Paint (desired colors)
  • Paint brush
  • Container to hold the balloon (I used a bowl)
  • Bowl to make the paste

Step 1: Cut the newspaper & white copy paper into strips.
Step2: Make the paste by mixing the 1/2 cup of flour and 1 cup of water.
Step 3: Blow up the balloon to desired size.
Step 4: Dip the newspaper into the paste. Remove any excess paste and put it on the balloon. Do this until the entire balloon is covered with newspaper. Do not apply anymore than two coats of newspaper.
Step 5: Let it dry. I left it overnight but it should only take 4 hours to dry.

Step 6: Make another batch of paste by mixing the remaining 1/2 cup of flour and 1 cup of water.
Step 7: Repeat step 4 but this time use the white copy paper.
Step 8: Let the paper dry for a minimum of 4 hours.

As you can see there are some brown marks on the balloon. This is from the paste, but it can be easily covered up using paint. 

Step 9: Pop the balloon and remove from the shell. You might need to trim the opening to make the helmet sit upright.
Step 10: Use paint to decorate the helmet, then you’re done!

What do you think? Super easy, huh?! The best part is, it cost zero dollars! Well, that’s it for this tutorial. I hope you liked it. Into next time. Xoxo

Dining Room Table & Chairs Makeover. 

Between 4th grade final projects and a newly mobile baby, I finally finished the tutorial for the table & chairs! Honestly, I’m impressed I was able to get it done in two weeks. Anyway, if you are looking to change up your dining room table or any piece of furniture for that matter, you have come to the right place.


I bought this table and chairs from a coworker thinking I would paint it and put it on our deck for outside seating. Come to find out the wood is not treated and it would warp over time, so I ended up putting it in our garage.

I love the country chic look of the table and I hated that it was sitting in our garage so I decided to use it as our dining table and chairs. It’s bigger than the table we were using and again the country chic look. 😊 However, my vision of the table was outweighed by the lack of motivation I had to sand it and do all the prepping. So it continued to sit in the garage until one day when the clouds parted and I was introduced to Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (THANK YOU PINTEREST!!) After doing a little research I found out there is NO PREPPING involved. I repeat NO PREPPING to paint. No sanding, priming, staining. Nothing. I have painted several pieces of furniture and have always had to sand, prime, etc. so I though it was too good to be true. Let me tell you, it’s 100% true! So I googled where I could buy the paint, and found it at a cute antique store near my house. This was my first experience with Chalk Paint and it did not disappoint. I now have 3 pieces of furniture that I have used it on and I LOVE IT! So much that I want to share the love with you, but first things first. The materials.


  • Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

There are several colors you can choose from, but in Carrie style I wanted white and gray (shocker). I used: French Linen, Old White, and Paris Gray. If you don’t like this color scheme Annie Sloan has a large selection of colors and they mix well, so your options are almost limitless. 

  • Paint stir sticks
  • Annie Sloan wax brush
  • Lint free cloth
  • Chip brush (I used 3. One for each color.)
  • Clear Finishing Wax (I bought mine from Lowe’s because it was less expensive than the Annie Sloan version. In my opinion it works well.)
  • 120 grit sand paper (just to smooth it over after applying the paint.)
  • Dish soap
  • Water
  • Paper bowl

Once you have all your materials gathered follow these step-by-step instructions:

Step 1: Clean the table with soap and water. That’s it for prepping!

Step 2: Stir the paint or turn them upside down for about 10-15 minutes. Either way make sure it is mixed well.

Step 3: Dab the chip brush into clean water and apply one thin coat of Old White to the base.

Step 4: Let the paint dry. It should dry within 15-20 minutes. Super fast!

Step 5: Apply a second coat of Old White to the base. Make sure to apply the paint with the grain of the wood. Let it dry completely.

Step 6: Apply one thin coat of French Linen to the tabletop. Let it dry. Don’t be alarmed if you see brush marks, it happens. The second coat should cover them up. This paint goes a LONG way so don’t think you need to glob it on to cover up the marks.

Step 7: Apply a second coat of French Linen to the tabletop.

Step 8: Using the paper bowl mix 2 parts Paris Gray to one part Old White. Add a little water to the bowl.

Step 9: Dip the chip brush in water and then the mix and apply a thin coat to the tabletop. While the paint is still wet, quickly wet the lint free cloth and lightly glide it on the tabletop. Doing this provides dimension and gives the tabletop that weathered look. Let it dry.

Step 10: Repeat step 8. Let it dry completely. I left it overnight. (Don’t mind our messy garage!)

Steps 11 & 12 are optional, depending on the look you are going for. 

Step 11:  Use the 120 grit sandpaper to weather the table in the areas where normal wear-and-tear would be. This step is completely optional though.

Step 12: Wipe the table down to make sure all particles from using the sandpaper are removed.

Step 13: Dip the wax brush into the wax and apply in a circular motion. The wax acts as the seal so be sure you are happy with the look before applying. Apply wax to the entire table.

Step 14: Do steps 1-5 & 13 for the chairs.

Step 15: Wipe the table & chairs down after the wax dries then sit back and enjoy your new table and chairs!

I hope you liked my tutorial! I would love to see your finished product so please share. Thanks for stopping by! xoxo