Raise your hand if you love Restoration Hardware! Me too. So much, me too. However, we are not in that 1% bracket, so I could not justify spending $4k+ on a dining room table. Maybe one day. But not anytime soon. So what is a girl to do when they want a specific table, but don’t want to spend the money? Build it, of course! So that is what I did. I built a replica of the RH table I deeply fell in love with. I actually love this table more because I built it with my own two hands.
Note: I purchase all the wood at Lowe’s. The cost will vary based on where you purchase the materials.
Inspired yet? For those of you that are and love this style of table as much as I do, I documented the entire process to share it with you. So without further adieu…let’s jump right in!
Wood
4 – 2 x 10 x 8’ – tabletop $10.82 each
1 – 2 x 8 x 8’ – tabletop end caps $5.58 each
2 – 4 x 4 x 8’ – legs $11.42 each
4 – 2 x 4 x 8’ – frame $3.02 each
Total cost: $83.78 + tax
Wood cuts
4 – 2 x 10 x 57 1/2” – tabletop
2 – 2 x 8 x 37” – tabletop end caps
4 – 4 x 4 x 29 1/4” – legs
2 – 4 x 4 x 33” – leg support
2 – 2 x 4 x 26” – tabletop end cap frame
2 – 2 x 4 x 60” – tabletop frame
3 – 2 x 4 x 30” – tabletop support
Overall table dimensions: 31 3/4 x 37 x 72
Tools & Supplies
Face mask
Safety goggles
Level
Tape measure
Pencil
Miter saw
Clamp
Circular saw
Chisel
Drill
Kreg Jig
2 1/2” pocket hole screws
Electric screwdriver
Orbital sander
40 grit sandpaper
180 grit sandpaper
Lint free cloth
2” wood screws
Stainable wood filler
Putty knife
Miss Mustard Seed’s Antiquing Wax
Wax brush
Note: I used 2 1/2” pocket hole screws because the wood is 2” thick (which is really 1 1/2” thick). If you are using thinner wood, you need to use the correct screw size based on the thickness. If you have a Kreg Jig, there is a manual included that tells you which size to use based on the thickness of the wood.
Cut the 4 tabletop pieces to 57 1/2” then cut the 2 – 2 x 8” end caps to 37”. The 8” wood is really 7 1/4” wide. The two end caps plus the 57 1/2” pieces will make the table 72” long in total.
Next, cut the legs to 29 1/4”. You should have enough 4×4 wood left to make the bottom end pieces.
Note: You will need the left over 4×4 wood after cutting the legs, so it is important to cut the legs before cutting the leg support pieces.
Cut the 2 – 33” leg support pieces using the left over 4×4 wood. You should have just enough. I set the 33” pieces aside and did not cut the notches out until after the rest of the table was assembled.
Cut the frame pieces. Reference the wood cuts above.
With the table legs standing right side up, measure 4” up from the bottom of each table leg and mark it with a pencil. From the 4” mark, measure 3 1/2” up from that and mark it. You should have two marks. One at 4” and one at 7 1/2”. From both marks, measure (inward) 1 3/4” and mark them. You should have four markings. Connect the pencil marks, making a rectangle. See picture below.
Flip the piece over, clamp the leg to a sturdy and level table, set the circular saw to 1 3/4″ depth, put on safety googles, then use the circular saw to cut out the rectangle that you marked. You will need to make several passes with the saw as close together as possible. The first two cuts should be on the markings then work your way in. You will repeat the previous step and this step for all four legs. See below.
After you have made all the passes, the wood should be thin enough for you to push forward so the pieces break-off. See below
The notch will look messy. Don’t panic! Use a chisel to smooth it out.
Once you have all the legs done, set them aside and assemble the table base.
Side note, the amount of sawdust was real.
Use a Kreg Jig to make 2 pocket holes on each end of each of the 4 frame pieces that will connect to the legs. This is how you will connect the frame to the legs. See picture below.
Once you‘ce made all the pocket holes, use 2 1/2” pocket hole screws to secure the frame pieces to the legs. See picture below.
Make 1 pocket hole on each end of the three 2 x 4 x 30” tabletop support pieces using a Kreg Jig. Then secure the three pieces to the frame. I spaced the two end pieces 6” from the legs and then centered the third piece. See picture below. This is to support and secure the tabletop to the frame.
Make pocket holes in three of the four tabletop pieces. I made 6-7 holes in each of the three pieces and spaced the pocket holes out every few inches. I did not measure the space since the holes would be hidden.
Make 4 pocket holes using the Kreg Jig on each of the tabletop end cap pieces. I didn’t space the holes out on those either. I eyed it.
Assemble the tabletop together using pocket hole screws. Cover the holes with stainable wood filler. Allow the wood filler to dry completely. I let it dry overnight.
Note: you can bypass the next step if the wood is level.
Also, wear safety glasses and a face mask before sanding.
Sand the frame and the bottom of the tabletop before securing them together. I used 40 grit first because there were some spots where the wood was not level. I did not sand the entire table with the 40 grit sandpaper. Only the places that needed it and the corners.
I used it around the corners so they weren’t so sharp. 40 grit sandpaper is specifically used to remove layers, so be cautious on how long you allow the sander to sand in one spot if you end up needing to use it.
Switch the 40 grit out for the 180 grit sandpaper and sand all the wood. 180 grit smooths the surface for final preparation before painting/staining.
I’ll be the first to tell you that I am not a big fan of sanding, but to build a quality piece of furniture it is required.
Wipe the wood clean with a damp lint-free cloth.
Place the tabletop facedown on a level surface, then place the frame facedown on top of the tabletop. Secure the tabletop to the 30” frame pieces using 2” wood screws. I used 4 screws per board.
Flip the table over. You will need help, especially if you use the same size wood. This table is insanely heavy.
Sand the top following the same steps you did to sand the frame and tabletop bottom. Again, you can skip the 40 grit and go straight to the 180 grit if everything is level AND you don’t mind the sharp corners.
Once the table was assembled I cut the notches out of the 2 – 4×4 33” frame support pieces.
You will need to secure each 4x4x33” piece to a table with clamps. See picture below.
Put a safety mask on and safety goggles. It is EXTREMELY important that you wear safety goggles while cutting the notches.
Using a tape measure, measure 3 1/2” up on each end and mark it. Set the circular saw to 1 3/4” depth, then cut at 3 1/2” mark. Continue to make several passes (as closely together as possible) until you reach the end.
You should be able to easily remove the strips of wood using a chisel. Then sand the notches using 40 grit sandpaper to make the surface level. You will need to do this on each end. See picture below.
Use 2” wood screws to secure the leg support pieces.
Wipe the table clean and stain or paint. I used Miss Mustard Seed’s Antiquing Wax. This stuff is a game changer! It adheres well and there is no chemicals. I stained our table after we got it inside the house.
CLICK HERE for details on the antiquing wax.
Tip: if you plan to use the same stain I did, use a chalk paint round brush and apply the stain in a circular motion. Use a lint free cloth to wipe any excess stain off. Bonus, the stain dries within seconds!
I was able to style our table immediately. We even ate dinner at the table that same night.
And that’s a wrap! I hope you found my tutorial inspiring to create a table you love. I paid $115 total to build and stain this table. It beats the $4k+ price tag on the table that inspired me to make this one. This is proof that you don’t have to have a lot of money to make your house your home and your style. Tag me on Instagram @acarriedaffairdesigns if you decide to make this table. I’d love to see!
Until next time friends. Xo
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